I managed to make my first Philly Beer Week event today, a luncheon with Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head Craft Brewing at Teresa’s Next Door in Wayne. It was, quite simply, spectacular.
Things started with Aprihop as a welcoming beer, with a “snack” of deviled quail egg, tomato-carrot bisque and Gruyere toast when we sat down. The egg alone was marvelous, with a bite of the toast dipped in bisque even better.
Equally memorable was the Praline fois gras torchon atop single malt and juniper-maple syrup toast, sweet and delicious. I figure a couple of those quail eggs and one of these would make for a helluva breakfast. Might have to skip the Immort Ale that accompanied it, however.
Pangaea was the next beer and a fine match for a baby arugula and green leaf salad with blood oranges, mouth-watering ginger-roasted beets and lavender-candied fennel topped with a hop malt vinaigrette.
I should note that I was having but a sip of each beer since I had to come back here and keep some telephone appointments for interviews. And that this was the first course where It struck me that the serving was not centered on the plate as you’d expect, but a bit askew. That clever Andy Dickerson was having the kitchen crew do that purposefully…off-centered food for off-centered ales for off-centered people. Very subtle, very clever.
The next course, and my last as I had to rush out the door, was a Teresa’s re-invention of a Turducken which they called a Porelkbit: a slice of roulade of rabbit loin wrapped in portk tenderloin wrapped in elk loin. all wrapped in Speck, set atop a duck leg and blueberry barlotto with a blackberry and blueberry demi-glace. Plus a couple of those berries to brighten the plate. This was served, as you might have already guessed, with Dogfish Black and Blue.
By leaving early, I had to miss the ’06 Fort sorbet, a bourbon-vanilla gelato and Hopperdoodle crisp (whatever that is), but Andy grabbed me at the door with a “doggie bag” of the final course (which was served with Red adn White), fruity salumi paired with some great cheeses. My carry-plate also included a chocolate-y hop brownie which, I assume, was on the snack plate following lunch, to be enjoyed with Palo Santo Marron.
Quite simply, I suspect there are going to be few, if any, meals served during PBW that will outshine this one. The afternoon was a marvelous snowing for both brewery and restaurant.I am delighted I was able to be there for most of it.